9.11.2008

Day 17, Part 2: Last Look

At the gate of the Kigali Airport, I took one last photo through the open window of the lights of Kigali below. For a city so densely populated, there is very little light; homes and lives are swallowed up by heavy, thick night, and all that remains are a few pinpricks of electricity in a warm and breathing sea.

When we boarded the plane, Rwanda was lost behind and beneath us, invisible and small and dark and needy and loved.

Day 17, Part 1: Goodbyes and Gifts

Our last day of teaching at the Learning Center was less about teaching and more about celebrating. There was some dancing, there was some speech-giving, and then there were lots of pictures.


And suddenly, our time in Rwanda was coming to a close. But one more thing to do - give out the rest of the dolls. So we went to the Women for Women compound, to give dolls to the babies of the women in the program. Back at home, the dolls looked like this:

But in the hands of women and babies, the dolls looked more like this:

They were much more alive. I do not doubt that they will be loved and treasured and cherished for years to come.

Lovely L. had also given us a group of hand-knitted baby hats, which we distributed with pride and which were received with gratefulness.
Then, hands and hearts empty, we returned to the orphanage and spent our remaining hours reflecting on our time and zipping up our suitcases, full now of gifts and souvenirs.



Day 16: Students and Orphans

When we returned to Kigali we had to move all of our things to the SOS Orphanage boarding house about a half mile on unmarked roads away. We approached the new living arrangements with trepidation, but were pleasantly surprised to find clean, quiet, spacious rooms. Shared bathrooms were the only downside, but our group was growing smaller by the day so it wasn't an issue.


We taught in the morning - our second-to-last-class - and gave the students a set of soccer and basketballs.


Then we had the afternoon free. M and I decided it was time to hand out the dolls that a group of students at my school, some other volunteers, and I had made. Since we were staying at an orphanage, we figured it would be a good place to start....




We also gave the kids a bunch of beanie babies (thanks M.M.!)... but over all these children seemed pretty happy, well-adjusted, and taken care of.

We spent he rest of the evening packing and getting ready to leave the next night...

Day 15: Relaxing in Akagera

We had scheduled a boat ride on the lake - hippos and crocodiles to be seen - but M and I decided against it. The adventure of the day before, and the accumulation of early mornings and late nights and so many experiences made us need a day off. So we slept in. And, yes, we even used the pool.

In fact, the wildlife came to us...

And these beautiful blue birds, with iridescent feathers, that I could never quite capture with my camera.






And then our drive back to Kigali - my last glimpse of remote and rural Rwanda - the distinctive red dust and warm afternoon light and green banana trees and bright people providing all the subject material I could ever need for a beautiful photo.

Day 14: The Akagera Safari

We were up exceptionally early to do the full-day safari.
The breakfast was pleasant but early. We got shown the baboons that live around the lodge (during the genocide, the lodge was abandoned and the baboons took over... now they are sometimes confused as to who lives inside and who lives outside).

Then, in the SUVs we had driven from Kigali, we picked up a registered guide and hit the bumpy, dusty, rutted road. 4 people to a car, plus driver and guide - meaning two in the way back.

Within the first ten minutes, we saw 2 warthogs

a baboon

two monkeys

and even a hippo.


The next six hours were somewhat less exciting. Although we did get attacked by horseflies, which was the most entertaining/exhausting part of the day.
and we found some zebra...
a few antelope...
and even a couple of giraffes!
Our safari took us all the way to the Ugandan border, on which we saw some amazing cows. They all have these exceptionally huge and majestic-looking horns.

And even in the farthest reaches of wilderness, at the edge of the national park itself, in the driest and most barren land, you can't escape the reality of humanity in Rwanda; people are the country, and no matter how many circles you drive in across empty savanna, people are walking and living and somehow surviving in every corner and empty stretch.